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While other board makers have tweaked the idea with fresh hold sets and technology, many consider the MoonBoard the genesis of the entire SICTB movement. Users could also set their own problems on the board and upload them to the Moon Climbing website for others to try, bringing together a global community of training climbers.Īll modern SICTBs are modeled after the original MoonBoard concept. Based on the walls of The School Room, the new MoonBoard allowed climbers around the world to test themselves against the same challenging movements. In 2004, Moon had the idea to build a standardized training board that could be replicated all over the world. This bright idea is the basis of the benchmarks’ that are standard on all modern SICTBs. The idea was that fixed holds allowed climbers to track their progression on the same moves and problems over time. The walls of The School Room were fixed with handmade holds that were never removed or replaced. Moon’s homemade walls eventually became a mini climbing gym called The School Room, where climbers could sign up as members and train on Moon’s wooden creations. In the late 1980s, Ben Moon was frustrated with a lack of adequate training facilities and soon built multiple wooden training boards in Sheffield, England. Although these first-generation woodies were simple and unpolished, they laid the foundation for the high-tech SICTBs climbers enjoy today. Original prototypes of such devices are now displayed proudly in modern gyms such as Cafe Kraft and Momentum Climbing. In an age before commercial climbing companies, home walls (or woodies) were outfitted with rough wooden holds and drilled pockets.
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In climbing hubs such as Salt Lake City, Sheffield, England, and Nuremberg, Germany, bands of eager climbers constructed early versions of the training boards that have become universal in today’s climbingsphere. Before climbing gyms dotted every major city in the country, small groups of climbers hand-built crude climbing walls and began to experiment.
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Toward the end of the 20th century, free climbing and sport climbing further accelerated climbers’ interest in cutting-edge training methods. Long before the V-scale for bouldering was created for measuring the difficulty of boulder problems, Gill managed to climb boulders up to V11. These include one-armed pull-ups and front levers. Gill trained using pull-up bars and gymnast rings, and he grew strong enough to pull off feats of strength that are still sought after today. John Gill, considered by many to be the father of modern bouldering, applied his background in gymnastics to his passion for rock climbing. John Gillįor many decades, elite climbers have recognized that limiting factors such as power and finger strength can be targeted and improved using specialized training implements. From Wolfgang Güllich’s campus board to John Bachar’s Bachar Ladder, the desire to grow stronger has historically turned climbers into obsessive inventors. History of Standardized Interactive Climbing Training Boards (SICTBs)Ĭlimbers have been developing training tools since the dawn of the sport itself. We’ll also explain the differences between the different SICTBs on the market today. We’ll clarify who should and should not train on SICTBs, and we’ll provide some basic strategies for structuring an SICTB climbing session. In this article, we’ll break down everything to know about SICTBs and answer common questions many curious climbers have. Currently, a number of companies are selling SICTBs: Moon, Kilter, Tension, Grasshopper, and Lattice.Īs a training device, SICTBs can seem intimidating and complicated. In a gym, you can often find SICTBs tucked away in a corner or designated room.Ĭlimbers using these boards are heard before they’re seen, as loud and guttural power grunts from active users are common. Standardized Interactive Climbing Training Board (SICTB)īy now, most climbers will at least be semifamiliar with SICTBs. Read on for how they work and how they might help you become a stronger climber. These boards are compact, overhanging, and littered with an eye-catching assortment of LED-lit climbing holds.īelow are five companies, each with a different approach to SICTB training.
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Read more…Īmong the new developments in climbing training equipment, one specific category of tools has made the biggest impact of all: the Standardized Interactive Climbing Training Board, or SICTB.Įssentially, SICTBs are small climbing walls designed to target weaknesses, increase raw power, build finger strength, and break through performance plateaus. Adam Ondra, who has repeatedly climbed the world's hardest outdoor routes, sets his sights on training for the games. Climbing is a new addition to the 2020 Tokyo Olympics.